Chelinda

20 July 2014

After waiting for 2 days for the park to have a vehicle that could take me and the university students into Chelinda, I got lucky and found an early morning ride on Tuesday with two Swiss tourists and their 3(!) safari guides/drivers. They had room in the covered bed of their pickup truck and were leaving again in two days. I laid back in the bed and enjoyed the luxury (no joke, this ride was awesome compared to most).

This ended up being a smart decision. I arrived at the small village and ‘resort’ before noon. Transport was largely uneventful except for some zebras close to the car as we neared Chelinda (no time for a photo ) The university students arrived near 10 pm, were cold, and their trip took almost twice as long.

The views on the drive in are fantastic. Scenery slowly shifts from seemingly endless Brachystega woodland to rolling hills of short grass interspersed with towers of bare rock and forest in the damp parts of the valleys. By the time you reach Chelinda it is nothing but grassland as far as the eye can see, with one very prominent exception. The Chelinda area sticks out like a sore thumb.

The village has ~200 people not counting the guests (currently very few). The whole area backs up onto a tremendous pine plantation, and the village area is scattered with blue gum trees (Eucalyptus). The weather is damn cold and regularly misty for hours. The village houses are constructed from great pine planks, layered like shingles – very un-Malawi like. The upscale (in cost) Chelinda lodge looks as though it belongs in the Swiss Alps. The whole scene is surreal given the context of location and feels as though it has been plucked from an entirely different continent.

I get to spend my nights in the simple youth hostel for free. It is decorated with paintings of animals from the park and has three old elephant jawbones that are speckled with lichen sitting outside one of the huts. I have brought some rice and sweet potatoes to hold me over for the time I am there. I buy some mpangwe (mustard greens) for 20 kwacha to accompany my dinner.

I have come to meet with the assistant park manager, who is also the research manager, in order to discuss the possibility of conducting my own ecology research project in addition to my other Peace Corps duties. I also want to talk about another possible project with the manager of the safari company. Wilderness Safaris currently holds the park concession at Chelinda for the tourist lodge and camp and I have some rough ideas for an eco-tourism project that could benefit the people of Thazima and also the safari company. I will keep you posted on this if any of it seems feasible to pursue working on.

Unfortunately the manager of the safari company is busy and leaving early the next day so I will miss that opportunity and with the research officer also out I have some time to kill. I am limited in the few areas that I can access by myself on foot but over the next few days I explore all of them (though I am later told that as a park employee this restriction does not hold for me).

Here is a short list of the things I see: Roan, Sable, Eland, Reedbuck, Zebra, Bushbuck so close I could tackle one should I choose, some large buzzards, and a day old leopard kill that is gone the next day along with leopard scat and foot prints but no leopards! Next time I hope….

  I also walk through the pine plantation. It is so vast and the trees so large that the sky darkens as you enter and all you can see are the trunks of trees. Exceptionally few animals can use the pine woods and no native plants grow there. The wind howls in the treetops and the trunks sway and creak. It is beautiful, haunting, and slightly depressing. The pine and blue gum are over 50 years old and are monstrous in size. I shudder at the thought of one tipping and squashing me flat – I have been told they collapse on occasion and it has caused damage to buildings in the area.

My meeting with the research officer is productive and it seems like I will get to come up with my own project for studying the reptiles/amphibians around Thazima and I will also get to contribute to other research projects in the park when time and transport allows. I will now have to think up a project.

After 2 days and nights of shivering and spending the time with a constant cold in my fingers and toes I am eager to get back to my village. The same Swiss couple that gave me a ride in also share a meal with me and  provide some very pleasant conversation. I am quite grateful as they are willing to give me another ride back out early Thursday morning. Overall it was a great experience and I look forward to braving the road in the rainy season when over 200 species of orchid are in bloom.

I have come to Mzuzu for the weekend to get some work done for Peace Corps and to use the good internet to update this blog. Next week I hope to build an improved cook stove at my house in order to teach my neighbors, counterpart and supervisor. I also hope to take the community elected leaders of the tree nursery into Rumphi for meeting with Total Land Care! This is particularly exciting to me as I plan to make agroforestry one of the main focuses of my time here.

It should be some time before my next blog post goes up – I won’t have much internet over the next month and hope to be fairly busy. I have been elected to be a part of the Man Panel (Manel for short) of a female youth empowerment camp that Peace Corps is hosting in Lilongwe in early August. I will get to candidly answer anonymously posted questions from Malawian 2ndary school girls (high school age). The purpose is for them to get honest answers to questions that they might not otherwise be socially able to ask of men. Expect more updates around that time and some photos later this weekend.


Cheers!