Saturday, February 14, 2015

Mphalata

22 Jan 2015.

Yesterday I had the pleasure of watching my very good friend Prince build a trap for Mphalata (Large edible termites). I watched with a smile as he dug on top of a large termite mound, the result was a slanting pit leading down to half of a plastic jug that had been buried in the clay. The whole pit was probably 2 m long and 1 m wide and about a foot deep. Long arching branches spanned the top of the pit, these are then covered with banana leaves and piles of leafy branches cut from nearby trees. The purpose of this is to darken the inside of the pit to encourage the termites to come out and eventually fall into the jug.

I am not sure why the termites act this way, but Prince was excited at the possibility of catching them – the resulting sale of the termites would bring a much needed boost to his income at a difficult time of year. One tin of termites (~20L) brings between 6,000 and 15,000 Malawi Kwacha (about 12 to 30 USD). Considering that the average household in Malawi currently earns around 80k to 150k kwacha a year, this is a noticeable chunk of potential money. (as of this writing the MWK to USD conversion was around 500 to 1)

I had come to find Prince so that we could plant some Moringa trees at his house – we were planning ahead for some live fence posts to use for a shed he was hoping to make next year. I left him to put the finishing touches on the termite trap while I went to retrieve the last of the Moringa seeds from the treasurer of the community tree nursery. When I returned I found him smiling ear to ear with a toothy grin as he dug a hole under one side of the termite mound.

“Have you ever tasted the honey of this animal?” he coyly asks.

Confused, I ask a few questions and watch as he eventually unearths the beginnings of a small hive of a tiny species of stingless, communal bees. The hive was buried deep in the bowels of the termite chambers. All of the digging has unearthed loads of guard termites – 1cm long insects with huge heads and pincers that can easily break skin. Comically the body seems like an afterthought as the sole purpose of these blind termite warriors is to attack anything that threatens the termite nest and to block tunnels from further enemy entry by stopping them up with their chunky noggins. Apparently the teeny bees are always found in termite mounds, they must take some advantage of the protection offered by the guards.

I laughed aloud many times as I watched Prince gingerly try to pick his way around the termites in his attempts to reach the cache of honey. He poked & prodded and unsuccessfully flicked the offending insects away from the slowly pooling prize. I watched as they aimlessly wandered blindly in circles, vainly trying to find the offending predator that has opened up their home.

 I winced sympathetically as he finally took my advice.

“I think you are just going to have to suck it up and shove your hand in there.”

Into the fray his hand went. He got the worst of it in the first wave, and after pulling many tightly clamped pincers from his skin, he was able to scoop the rest of the honey out of the ground and into a small plastic container. During the process I yelped as a few stray warriors latched onto my bare toes and fingers.

It was clearly worth the effort, Prince licked his honey soaked fingers and palms clean. We laughed and smiled together as he started to take bites of the humorously small honey comb. With eat bite he ingested honey, wax, bee bread (stored pollen), larvae and bees alike. You bet I tried it as well. The honey was delicious, though still no match for the best honey taken from proper hives up on the Nyika plateau. The comb with the pollen was, however, unworldly. An exceptional variety of rich, flowery flavors swirled my tongue. The sweet taste was so intense that only the smallest bit was needed.

Shortly after this the sky darkened and light rains started in around us. Because of the weather we were unable to capture the mphalata, but it was still easily one of my favorite moments with my friend Prince to happen so far. I do look forward to eating termites with him, as those little critters are surprisingly tasty once salted and fried up.

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